Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
